Susanna Cognigni on functional beauty and creative collaboration

With both parents and most of her relatives working in the shoemaking business, Susanna was introduced to the craft from a young age. ‘It was just something I was always surrounded by. In the summertime, when school was closed, I would help my father in his workshop, designing and cutting leather, and drawing chalk lines where the stitches would go. Now, after more than 20 years in the trade, it’s incredibly valuable for me as a designer to understand how products are made,’ she says. 

The Marche region, on the east coast of Italy, has a shoemaking tradition dating back to the 1400s. Today, specialists in every aspect of the shoemaking process – from the last maker to the tanneries, heel and sole makers, and those crafting trims and hardware – can be found in towns like Civitanova.

‘To me, that’s the main benefit of making our shoes here. Most of the companies are small and family-owned, and there’s so much knowledge and skill passed down through generations. I have a very close relationship with the people I work with – from the owners of the companies to the seamstresses and leather cutters. The design of our products is developed in dialogue with them. They refine our ideas, and sometimes, they even bring their own suggestions. It’s a beautiful exchange.’

In her work with ARKET’s collection, Susanna favours a simple, unadorned, and – above all – functional aesthetic. Rather than relying on trims or embellishments, the shape of each shoe is what gives it character. The process begins with the last – a wooden mold used to shape the shoe, precisely customised to each individual design, which lays the foundation for the rest of the shoe’s components.

‘We design for the modern woman, someone who has a lot to do during the day – going to and from work, dropping off or picking up the kids, or going for an aperitivo in the evening. So, what she wears must be practical and comfortable. It’s easy to make a beautiful shoe, but it needs to be functional; otherwise, it won’t be worn. With a garment, you might tolerate a little discomfort since you can still move freely, but with shoes, comfort is essential,’ Susanna says.