Originally woven by Scottish cotton mills in the late 1800s, Oxford was one of four contemporary fabrics named after the world’s most prestigious universities. The inexpensive and airy material became popular in athletic wear – worn by tennis and polo players – and is traditionally used in men’s casual shirting. Oxford cloth is made with double warp yarns and a single weft, resulting in a loose and textured basket-weave.
Oxford cloth is made by interlacing pairs of fine warp yarns with a single slightly heavier weft, resulting in an ‘unbalanced’ basket weave. The looser structure of the basket weave (compared to a traditional plain weave) makes Oxford less prone to wrinkling, and it is traditionally used in men’s casual shirting.
Classic Oxford is often woven with dyed warp yarns and a white weft which further enhances the signature checkerboard pattern and creates a subtle two-colour effect with a faint lustre.
Originally woven by Scottish mills in the late 1800s, Oxford was one of four contemporary fabrics named after the world’s most prestigious universities (the others were Cambridge, Harvard and Yale, but only Oxford remain today). Made with coarser cotton qualities, it was an inexpensive and airy material that became popular for athletic wear, such as tennis and polo shirts.
Pinpoint is a more formal variation on the classic Oxford weave. It is more tightly woven with pairs of finer yarns in both warp and weft (such as 2-ply 80s or 2-ply 100s), making it a softer and more luminous fabric with a finer texture.