222053-061OProductMerino Colour-Blocking Jumper
history La marinière
The striped sailor’s jumper, known as la marinière (the sailor), tricot rayé(striped knit) or chandail (jumper), became the official undershirt of the French navy in the spring of 1858.
An official bulletin specified the exact number and width of the stripes, stating that the body of the shirt should be patterned with 21 white stripes and 20 or 21 indigo-blue stripes, the white stripes being twice as wide – 20 millimetres – as the blue.
Variations of striped clothing had been worn by seamen in Western Europe since the 1600s and the sailor’s jumper originated as a fisherman’s garment, famously worn by onion and garlic merchants on the English Channel and on the Brittany peninsula. Tightly knitted from unwashed sheep’s wool, it provided protection from wind and water on the seas, and, made with a seamless tube construction, it was gentle and comfortable against the skin. The contrasting stripes made it easier to spot a man overboard.
In the 1910s and 1920s, traditional workwear was copied and adopted by artists and intellectuals, and by fashion design. The sailor’s jumper, also made in combed cotton, became a trend in the bohemian communities of Saint-Tropez and Antibes on the French Riviera; and together with soft jersey knits and a more androgynous silhouette, the ‘nautical style’ was an important inspiration for the modernisation of womenswear.
program Merino Yarn Project
program Merino Yarn Project
Designing a unique yarn for ARKET knitted fabrics means that the construction of a garment begins at the fibre level. This yarn, made from organic merino-wool fibres, runs through the entire collection and functions as the foundation of each style.
The fibres are spun in two directions with different amounts of twist to produce a yarn with optimal balance and strength. The yarn is then knitted in a variety of tensions and textures, which results in the same construction serving essentially different versions depending on the combinations of yarn count (weight and fineness) and gauge (number of needles per inch).
Based on a mathematical formula, the combinations have been developed for each knit to achieve the best possible performance from the natural raw material. By customising both yarn and knitting technique, it is possible to go beyond conventional qualities and create completely distinctive knitted fabrics characterised by durability and firm body.
Supplier Fujian Wanjiamei textile clothing
Based in the city of Quanzhou – which lies on the coast between Guangzhou and Shanghai – the Fujian factory designs and manufactures high-quality heavy knits. The company was founded in 2006, and its 1,500 employees are skilled in yarn winding, knitting panels, linking and special workmanship techniques – like advanced embroidery and traditional intarsia knitting by hand. With a number of quality and environmental certifications, Fujian reduces their waste and emissions by employing a better utilisation rate of raw materials. They are crafting heavy-knit pieces for ARKET, using all of their advanced skills – including embroidery and hand knitting.