120005-319ProductTartan Checked Twill Shirt
Once a catchall term for the hardy woollen cloth worn by Highlanders,
‘tartan’ now refers to the distinctive plaids that have identified
Scottish clans for thousands of years.
Ancient Celts probably brought tartan to the Scottish Highlands between the 8th and 6th centuries BCE. Over time, tartans were woven specially for different castes – kings had seven stripes and peasants had only one. Colours were added, patterns grew more complex, and families and clans began using unique tartans to identify ancestry and announce fealty.
Tartans are actually complex twill weaves, but rather than using identical warp and weft patterns, tartans use slightly different fibres and colours to create individual patterns. Twill’s strength and cold- and water-repellent qualities made it well-suited to the rough, outdoor living of Highlanders.
Twill is one of the most common fabrics in the modern closet, woven for
everything from denim jeans and chino trousers to dress shirts and
gabardine jackets. Its tell-tale diagonal pattern makes it a rugged,
reliable material for structured garments.
One of three fundamental types of weaves – the other two are plain weave and satin – twill is woven with a ‘step’ that gives it its iconic diagonal appearance. One thread crosses over one or more threads before moving under two or more threads. The pattern is repeated but ‘steps up’ one thread in the weave, creating a staircase effect.
The step construction makes twill wrinkle-resistant and helps it drape well with a softer and more pliable feel. The diagonal texture means that stains are less noticeable than they would be on a smooth surface, making it a solid choice for work wear as well as upholstery.
Esquel is a textile and apparel manufacturer for some of the world’s leading brands, producing more than 100 million pieces per year. Based in Hong Kong, the company and its 57,000 employees work in a way that reduces their environmental impact, and contributes to the communities in which they operate. Their eco-wash process, in particular, reduces resource use and encourages lean production with less manual labour. The 40-year-old company has a complete supply chain that starts with growing its own extra-long staple cotton, and handles all stages of the process through to packaging. For ARKET, Esquel is crafting men’s and women’s shirts.