130002-367OProductREGULAR Raw Selvedge Jeans
history Coin pocket
Jeans are commonly referred to as ‘five pockets’, but when the first pairs were made to outfit miners in 1870s California, there were only three pockets – one in the back, placed to the right, and two in the front.
Soon, a smaller extra pouch, about 9 centimetres wide, was added inside the right front pocket. It was originally included to protect pocket watches, thus called a ‘watch pocket’, but was in reality used for any small belongings like tickets, matches or coins.
From the first years of the 20th century, blue jeans were designed with two back pockets and the extra pocket was gradually downsized to about 7.5 centimetres. Smaller and less commonly used for carrying watches, it has since then become known as a coin pocket.
Founded in 1992, Pimkie is an apparel manufacturer and exporter based in Bangladesh, whose factory has been ranked one of the most modern in the country. Its 1,500 employees work in platinum- and gold-level, LEED-certified factories (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) to produce woven tops and bottoms – particularly denim. In fact, its skilled workforce produces 2.8 million denim pieces each month. They are putting their denim expertise to work for ARKET, producing jeans with a more sustainable wash.
Kuroki is a manufacturer of selvedge denim with a long tradition in the textile industry. The company is located in Okayama of western Japan – the birthplace and ‘capital’ of Japanese denim – and has been specialised in the production of high-quality denim twills since 1970, using traditional indigo dyes to achieve unmistakable blue shades.
Kuroki’s qualities range from soft and lightweight 5 oz. to super-heavyweight 28 oz. denims, all woven on vintage Toyota shuttle looms manufactured before 1960. Shuttle looms allow for weaving with low tension and produce fabric rolls with a self-bound edge, selvedge, either in solid colours or jacquard patterns.
Praised for its depth, the authentic look of Kuroki’s 100 per-cent cotton denim is achieved through a traditional rope-dying process that has been used for indigo dyes for centuries. Because the yarns are dyed bundled together, the core of each yarn stays white and the shade varies slightly between the inside and outside yarns. This intentional unevenness is transferred into the fabric, giving it an organic and handmade expression.
The Kuroki mill currently employs 63 skilled professionals, who combine time-honoured methods with industry innovations to produce quality fabrics with a long lifespan.