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KNOWLEDGE

LA MARINIÈRE

Knowledge The striped sailor’s jumper was picked up by artists and fashion designers in 1920s France, and the nautical style was an important inspiration for the modernisation of womenswear.

Known as ‘la marinière’ (the sailor), ‘tricot rayé’ (striped knit) or simply ‘chandail’ (jumper), the striped knitted sailor’s jumper became the official undershirt of the French navy in the spring of 1858. An official bulletin specified the exact number and width of the stripes that was to be used in the design: 21 white stripes and 20 or 21 indigo-blue stripes, with white stripes twice as wide, 20 millimetres, as the blue.

Variations of striped clothing had been worn by seamen in Western Europe since the 1600s and the sailor’s jumper originated as a fisherman’s garment, famously worn by onion and garlic merchants on the English Channel and on the Brittany peninsula. Tightly knitted from unwashed sheep’s wool, it provided protection from wind and water on the seas, and, made with a seamless tube construction, it was gentle and comfortable against the skin. The contrasting stripes made it easier to spot a man overboard.

In the 1910s and 1920s, traditional workwear was copied and adopted by artists and intellectuals, and by fashion design. The sailor’s jumper became a trend in the bohemian communities of Saint-Tropez and Antibes on the French Riviera, and together with soft jersey knits and a more androgynous silhouette, the ‘nautical style’ was an important inspiration for the modernisation of womenswear.

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KNOWLEDGE

Spring overshirts

Modern overshirts are inspired by functional workwear and utility garments, including the French blue work jacket, military jackets and artisan smocks. Minimally detailed and cut with extra room, they’re the perfect layer for the transitional season.

 

People

The beauty of slow flowers

By appreciating the full cycle of a plant’s life and exploring our local environment, we can deepen our connection with nature and find beauty in everything that grows and changes, says Maria Berg, floral designer and head stylist at Rosendal’s Garden in Stockholm.

Materials

Premium recycled cotton

By carefully preserving cotton fibres from textile waste and spinning them with certified organic cotton, Los Angeles-based Circular Systems creates the world’s most premium recycled cotton yarn.  

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The grid is an essential element of our visual identity. It represents the notion of the archive and is used to organise and display information ranging from the names of plants to fabric weights and different types of materials used in our collections. These nine squares symbolise the separate parts that together form our world, and they are also the areas where we strive to make a difference.