142005-520ProductTechnical Hopsack Topcoat
A number of new easy-fitting overcoat designs appeared during the 19th century, including the Raglan, Ulster and Chesterfield, tailored for travelling or outdoor activities.
Early models of the Chesterfield, the first civilian overcoat, contained several changes that remain characteristic for modern examples – understated cut, dark wool, short vent, centre back-seam, single-breasted fly front, side pockets and no cuffs. Above all, it dispensed with the previously obligatory waist seam and was meant to be worn loosely over another garment.
Once a catchall term for the hardy woollen cloth worn by Highlanders, ‘tartan’ now refers to the distinctive plaids that have identified Scottish clans for thousands of years.
Ancient Celts probably brought tartan to the Scottish Highlands between the 8th and 6th centuries BCE. Over time, tartans were woven specially for different castes – kings had seven stripes and peasants had only one. Colours were added, patterns grew more complex, and families and clans began using unique tartans to identify ancestry and announce fealty.
Tartans are actually complex twill weaves, but rather than using identical warp and weft patterns, tartans use slightly different fibres and colours to create individual patterns. Twill’s strength and cold- and water-repellent qualities made it well-suited to the rough, outdoor living of Highlanders.
Supplier Time International
Based in Bucharest, Romania, Time International is a family-run garment manufacturer using ethical production methods. The company, founded in 1994, operates two production units close to the Bulgarian border, and its 1,500 employees specialise in making tailored menswear with the highest complexity and precision. They handle everything from pattern making, grading and prototype manufacturing to sewing and finishing garments. For ARKET, Time is making men’s blazers, coats and trousers.