142009-520ProductTechnical Hopsack Topcoat
history Officer's coat
History Officer’s coat
The roots of the officer’s coat go back to the 19th century, when
British military officers and soldiers used the rubberized cotton coats
as waterproof outerwear over their uniforms.
The long length and generous cut are trademarks of this type of jacket, as are the raglan sleeves that created the necessary room in the upper arm to fit a bulky uniform underneath. It also had an oversized collar that could be flipped up and secured using the buckle at the neck to protect from the elements.
Because of its extra-long silhouette, a long back vent made it easier to sit down in the coat. And loops meant the coat could be belted.
A number of new easy-fitting overcoat designs appeared during the 19th
century, including the Raglan, Ulster and Chesterfield, tailored for
travelling or outdoor activities.
Early models of the Chesterfield, the first civilian overcoat, contained several changes that remain characteristic for modern examples – understated cut, dark wool, short vent, centre back-seam, single-breasted fly front, side pockets and no cuffs. Above all, it dispensed with the previously obligatory waist seam and was meant to be worn loosely over another garment.