history Field jacket, M-1965
history Field jacket, M-1965
The M-1965 field jacket was originally developed by the US military as part of a cold-weather system that included trousers, liners and hoods that could be combined for adjusting to different weather conditions.
It was based on the design of earlier field coats, with four reinforced cargo pockets, a covered zip, drawstring waist and a separate liner made with quilted polyester that could be buttoned in for extra warmth. But the jacket also featured important changes when it was introduced in 1965. Hook-and-loop fasteners were added around the cuffs to allow adjusting the fit, and an attached hood that could be rolled out when needed was hidden in a compartment in the back of the collar.
Made from NYCO fabric, a nylon-and-cotton blend that was newly developed for the military, the M-1965 was both water- and wind-resistant, extremely hardwearing and breathable. It was first introduced in olive green.
history M-51 field jacket
The M-1951 field jacket (also abbreviated M-51) was introduced in the 1950s as part of the U.S. army uniform. Used into the 1960s – mainly during oversees missions – the olive-drab garment was made from a 9-ounce cotton sateen cloth that offered both wind and water resistance. The design was based on the earlier M-1943 model, but had snap buttons and a full-length dual zip closure instead of regular buttons.
Intended to offer versatility and protect against cold, the jacket was equipped with a separate liner that could be buttoned in, a snap wind flap for extra warmth around the zip area, a drawstring at waist, and a detachable hood. The four large cargo pockets were ideal for storing small on-the-go items. The jacket was worn with matching M-1951 field trousers made from the same material.
The style was gradually replaced by the current M-65 field jacket with a stand-up collar – although many soldiers were said to have liked the M-51 model better as it has a pointed collar that presented a sharper appearance when starched.
Beste was founded in Prato, Tuscany, in 1992 by then 28-year old textile technician Giovanni Santi. Using techniques traditionally reserved for crafting exclusive wool and cashmere weaves, the company set out to innovate the production of high-quality cotton fabrics. Now based in the small town of Cantagallo, just outside Prato, Beste is a vertically organised manufacturer and developer designing both woven fabrics and final garments. The company specialises in elaborate dyeing and finishing techniques, such as rope dyeing, piece dyeing and natural-fibre technical weaves, and supplies three fabrics for ARKET outerwear.
Twill is one of the most common fabrics in the modern closet, woven for everything from denim jeans and chino trousers to dress shirts and gabardine jackets. Its tell-tale diagonal pattern makes it a rugged, reliable material for structured garments.
One of three fundamental types of weaves – the other two are plain weave and satin – twill is woven with a ‘step’ that gives it its iconic diagonal appearance. One thread crosses over one or more threads before moving under two or more threads. The pattern is repeated but ‘steps up’ one thread in the weave, creating a staircase effect.
The step construction makes twill wrinkle-resistant and helps it drape well with a softer and more pliable feel. The diagonal texture means that stains are less noticeable than they would be on a smooth surface, making it a solid choice for work wear as well as upholstery.